Which ankle boots will we wear this autumn?
Textured leather, pointed toes, chunky soles, and every shade of brown imaginable. The autumn and winter collections for 2026–2027 are full of footwear that could make you fall for a new pair all over again. Even if just last year you were firmly convinced that you already had enough shoes.
We usually start thinking about a new coat before summer is over, yet put off buying ankle boots until the first serious cold spell. Then we realise last year's pair has lost its appeal, nothing in the wardrobe works with the new skirt, and the boots we loved last season suddenly don't look quite so good. And the search begins.
This year the choice is unusually broad. Some designers are looking back to 2000s bohemia, others to the femininity of the 1980s, while others favour the sharper shapes of a minimalist wardrobe. Chloé showed soft, slouchy leather; Celine offered close-fitting styles; and Dior brought back substantial buckles and straps.
So which ankle boots deserve a closer look this autumn? Here are six directions to consider before choosing your next pair.
Soft leather and effortlessly slouchy shafts
Twenty years ago, Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and probably half the women whose photographs we cut from fashion magazines wore boots like these. Then came the era of minimal footwear, and bohemian style stepped out of the spotlight for a while. Now it's back.
The loose shafts gathered around the ankle in Isabel Marant and Chloé's autumn collections recall the best of the 2000s, styled a little differently this time: fewer hippie dresses, more beautifully tailored coats, wide trousers and restrained colours.
Soft suede looks particularly good with wool, chunky knits and relaxed denim. It also has a hard-to-explain quality: even a new pair can feel as though it has belonged in a considered wardrobe for years.
One combination may be best left in the past, though: extremely skinny jeans tucked into boots with a long jumper. Nostalgia has its charms, but we don't need to repeat every decision we made in our youth.
Pointed toes and small heels
After years of chunky shoes dominating fashion pages, more graceful silhouettes are making room for themselves. The 2026 collections show pointed toes, narrow shafts and small heels again. Celine's styles are particularly interesting, with thin, soft leather that fits close to the leg.
Pointed shoes never really disappeared; what changes is how we wear them. Where we might once have reached for narrow trousers or a fitted dress, the contrast with wide jeans, long skirts and oversized menswear-inspired blazers now feels fresher.
One of the season's loveliest combinations is also simple: long trousers that almost touch the ground, with a pointed toe peeking out beneath. The effect is entirely different from trainers or chunky boots.
If pointed toes aren't for you, try a square toe. They're still relevant, especially with a narrow silhouette and a modest heel. Supersymmetry's leather Turriers ankle boots have just that shape. They look especially good with wide tailored trousers, but work just as well with jeans or a longer skirt.
Buckles, straps and a hint of biker attitude
If you've bought only minimalist shoes in recent years, this autumn's collections may be a pleasant surprise. Designers have renewed their interest in hardware, from almost invisible little buckles to wide leather straps that wrap around the whole shaft.
Dior showed tougher styles with several buckles, while Dries Van Noten offered subtler details reminiscent of antique jewellery. They may nod to biker boots, but there's no rule that says you have to wear them with a leather jacket.
In fact, one of the best combinations puts heavier boots against lighter fabrics: a silk skirt, fine knit, long wool coat and substantial buckles. The contrast can be more interesting than head-to-toe black leather — though that look has its admirers too.
If you've been looking for a reason to bring an unworn midi skirt out of the wardrobe, these boots might be a good place to start.
Dark brown: perhaps it's time for a change from black
No one is suggesting giving up black boots. They're practical, go with almost everything and are often the safest choice. But this season's collections raise a fair question: why do we choose brown so rarely?
Chocolate, chestnut and dark tobacco are especially appealing this autumn. They look beautiful on leather with texture: grained, slightly glossy or gently distressed. Missoni showed brown crocodile-pattern boots with metal buckles that recalled the best vintage finds.
Dark brown works with grey wool, dark blue denim, burgundy and olive green. It's especially worth trying with black. Once considered almost a styling mistake, the combination can be compelling: a black coat, black trousers and rich brown leather boots can feel more interesting than an entirely black look.
Another advantage is that they don't feel confined to one season. A well-chosen dark brown leather pair can stay with you for many autumns.
If you've always worn black, take a look at Arleux or the classic brown Perrou. The latter will appeal to Chelsea-boot devotees who aren't about to give them up because something else is in fashion.
Lace-up boots and a little old-fashioned charm
Lace-up boots are getting more attention too. But don't immediately picture heavy military boots with thick soles. Designers are also offering much finer versions: narrower toes, small heels and long rows of laces.
Some recall the women's footwear of the late nineteenth century seen in old photographs and period films. Similar influences have appeared in contemporary fashion collections.
The trick is not to turn the whole outfit into a costume. A romantic dress, lace and lace-up boots can be lovely, but for everyday wear, try straight trousers, a simple shirt and an oversized blazer.
Old-fashioned details often look best in a modern wardrobe when used sparingly. One unusual pair of shoes, an old brooch or a small vintage handbag can say more about personal style than an entire outfit of new purchases.
What about everyday wear?
Runways aside, on an October morning in Vilnius your boots need to be comfortable to walk in as well as beautiful — especially if your day involves more than the journey from your front door to the car.
Fortunately, the season has plenty of simpler styles. Low-heeled leather ankle boots, classic Chelseas, square toes and restrained colours haven't gone anywhere. They might draw less attention at fashion week, but in everyday life they're often more useful than the most spectacular runway pair.
Look beyond colour and heel shape. Is the sole too slippery? Does the shaft press against your ankle? Are they comfortable after a longer walk? If you wear wide trousers, notice how they fall over the boot. If you prefer skirts, consider how the shaft height works with your favourite length.
These may not be the most exciting questions to ask when shopping, but they often determine whether a pair becomes a favourite or stays in the wardrobe.
And remember: looking current doesn't require rebuilding your wardrobe every year. Sometimes a new pair of boots that works with clothes you already love brings more pleasure than another coat or jumper.
If you've found a pair that looks equally good with your favourite jeans, a long skirt and the coat you're wearing for a fifth autumn, you may not need to keep looking.
